In the Height of Luxury

Ruminations after a Philippine breakfast

A selfie of the author (right) with her husband

It was late morning on an early December day. My husband and I had a few hours to kill before we could check into our room at the Manila Hotel in the Philippine capital, so we decided to walk to Rizal Park, which was just across from the hotel’s parking lot.

We hadn’t had breakfast yet so we were also on the lookout for food. There were several kiosks at the edge of the park but they sold mainly cup soups and packaged snacks.

We asked a vendor if she knew of a place that sold hot food and she gestured to the next line of vendors over.

As we scoped out the kiosks, we happened upon one that had a sign saying “Nilagang Baka,” or Boiled Beef Soup. We came over and asked to see in the pot. Steam rose over the soup consisting of beef shank, pechay (bok choy), and spices.

We bought a couple of orders and were directed to a black plastic table with a lone chair. A stacking chair that had been reinforced by tying it with another was also produced.

A few minutes later, the vendor brought us a serving of rice each along with two bowls covered in thin disposable plastic bags (so they don’t have to wash the bowls) with some of the most delicious “nilaga” soup I’ve ever tasted in my life.